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Yumi Panda Crochet Amigurumi Free Pattern

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My daughter turned seven last spring, and she went through a serious panda phase. I’m talking panda backpack, panda socks, panda everything. So when I found this pattern for Yumi the Panda, I knew I had to make it for her birthday. I remember sitting at the kitchen table late at night, the house finally quiet, working on those tiny black eye patches while my coffee went cold beside me. When I finally held the finished toy in my hands, I actually teared up a little. It looked exactly like something you’d buy in a fancy toy shop, but I made it myself, stitch by stitch. My daughter screamed when she opened it. That reaction alone was worth every single round.

If you’ve been looking for a crochet panda pattern that actually looks adorable and not just “crafty,” this is the one. Yumi has those big anime-style eyes, soft pink blushes, little round paws, and a sweet pink bow on her head. She’s detailed, she’s charming, and she’s absolutely worth the time.

What You’ll Need

Plush yarn (120 m/100 gr.) (131 yds/3.5 oz) such as Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce:

  • White/ivory (main color, less than one full ball)
  • Black (for paws, ears, tail, eye patches, less than half a ball)
  • Pink (for blushes, less than half a ball)

Cotton or semi-cotton yarn (~330 m/100 g) (361 yds/3.53 oz) such as YarnArt Jeans or Alize Cotton Gold (for eyes, smile, eyebrows, and bow):

  • Black
  • White
  • Blue or green (for the iris color)
  • Pink (for the bow)

Other supplies:

  • Thin cotton yarn in plush yarn colors (for sewing body parts together)
  • Crochet hooks: 3.5 to 4 mm (for the body) and 2 to 2.5 mm (for the eyes and bow)
  • Synthetic or dental thread for tightening
  • Long needle for tightening and a large needle for sewing body parts
  • Stitch markers
  • Pins with large heads
  • Scissors
  • Fiber filling
  • Lots of love

Note from the pattern: The yarn thickness ratio should be 2:1, meaning the yarn for the body should be twice as thick as the yarn for the eyes. The hook for the eyes should be 1.5 mm smaller than the hook for the body. For this pattern, YarnArt Dolce was used with a 3.75 mm hook for the plush yarn and a 2.25 mm hook for the semi-cotton yarn.

Finished Size

Approximately 25 to 28 cm / 9.8 inches tall.

Please keep in mind that everyone crochets differently. Your finished size may vary a little depending on your tension and crochet style.

Abbreviations (U.S. Terminology)

  • MR = magic ring
  • CH = chain
  • SS = slip stitch
  • St = stitch
  • SC = single crochet
  • HDC = half double crochet
  • INC = increase (work 2 stitches in the same stitch)
  • INC HDC = increase of half double crochet (work 2 HDC in the same stitch)
  • DEC = decrease (2 SC together through the front loops)
  • *(SC, INC)6 (18) = repeat the combination in brackets 6 times; the number in brackets is the total stitch count for that round

Pattern Instructions

Start Here

First, crochet the upper and bottom paws, as they will be attached during the crocheting process.

Upper Paws (make 2)

Black plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook Stuff only the bottom part of the paw

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Round 2: 6 INC (12)
  • Round 3: (SC, INC)*6 (18)
  • Round 4: 18 SC
  • Round 5: 4 SC, (SC, DEC)*3, 5 SC (15)
  • Round 6: 15 SC
  • Round 7: 4 SC, 3 DEC, 5 SC (12)
  • Rounds 8 to 13: 6 rounds of 12 SC
  • Round 14: Work an incomplete round, about 10 to 11 SC, so that when folding in half, DECs are on one side of the detail
  • Work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 6 SC
  • Fix and cut the thread

Bottom Paws (make 2)

Black plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook Stuff only the bottom part of the paw

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Round 2: 6 INC (12)
  • Round 3: (SC, INC)*6 (18)
  • Round 4: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24)
  • Round 5: 24 SC
  • Round 6: 6 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC (21)
  • Round 7: 21 SC
  • Round 8: 6 SC, (SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC (18)
  • Round 9: 18 SC
  • Round 10: 6 SC, 3 DEC, 6 SC (15)
  • Rounds 11 to 13: 3 rounds of 15 SC
  • Round 14: Work an incomplete round, about 12 to 13 SC, so that when folding in half, DECs are on one side of the detail
  • Work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 7 SC
  • Fix and cut the thread

Head-Body

Start with white/ivory plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook Stuff as you go. Make sure the head shape is a bit flat and the muzzle is convex.

  • Round 0: Chain 9; work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS) as in all amigurumi toys (oval-shape detail)
  • Round 1: (Start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 7 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: 6 SC, INC (18)
  • Round 2: INC, 6 SC, 3 INC, 6 SC, 2 INC (24)
  • Round 3: SC, INC, 6 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (30)
  • Round 4: 2 SC, INC, 6 SC, (2 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (36)
  • Round 5: 3 SC, INC, 6 SC, (3 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (3 SC, INC)*2 (42)
  • Round 6: 4 SC, INC, 6 SC, (4 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (4 SC, INC)*2 (48)
  • Rounds 7 to 8: 2 rounds of 48 SC
  • Round 9: 5 SC, INC, 6 SC, (5 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (5 SC, INC)*2 (54)
  • Rounds 10 to 11: 2 rounds of 54 SC

Fold the detail in half, along the start chain. Shift the stitch marker exactly on the side, on the bend if necessary. This is important because the INCs in Round 12 should be exactly in the middle of the front part of the detail.

  • Round 12: 11 SC, 6 INC, 37 SC (60)
  • Rounds 13 to 15: 3 rounds of 60 SC
  • Round 16: 11 SC, 6 DEC, 37 SC (54)
  • Round 17: 5 SC, DEC, 6 SC, (5 SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC, (5 SC, DEC)*2 (48)
  • Round 18: 4 SC, DEC, 6 SC, (4 SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC, (4 SC, DEC)*2 (42)
  • Round 19: 3 SC, DEC, 6 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*2 (36)
  • Round 20: 2 SC, DEC, 6 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*2 (30)
  • Round 21: SC, DEC, 6 SC, (SC, DEC)*3, 6 SC, (SC, DEC)*2 (24)
  • Change thread color to black

Shift stitch marker on the side if necessary, so that DECs in Round 16 are under INCs in Round 12.

Mark the place for attaching upper paws: 6 SC on the sides at a distance of 6 SC in the front and on the back. Make sure the paws are on the sides of the head. A paw bend should be closer to the body. In Round 22, please be sure to check this area by markers, because the beginning of the round may shift differently. The place of attaching the first paw may go on the previous or next round (to do this, start attaching the paw earlier or later).

  • Round 22: 6 SC with the paw, 6 SC, 6 SC with the paw, 6 SC (24)
  • Round 23: (7 SC, INC)*3 (27)
  • Round 24: 27 SC
  • Round 25: (8 SC, INC)*3 (30)
  • Change thread color to white/ivory
  • Round 26: 30 SC
  • Round 27: (9 SC, INC)*3 (33)
  • Round 28: 33 SC
  • Round 29: (10 SC, INC)*3 (36)

*In Round 30, work INCs on the belly. Mark the middle of the belly and count 6 INC on the left and on the right from the middle. That is the area where you will work INCs ((SC, INC)6). Please be sure to check this area by markers, because the beginning of the round may shift differently.

  • Round 30: 8 SC, (SC, INC)*6, 16 SC (42)
  • Rounds 31 to 32: 2 rounds of 42 SC

Mark the place for attaching bottom paws: 7 SC on the sides at a distance of 14 SC in the front and on the back. A paw bend should be closer to the body. In Round 33, please be sure to check this area by markers, because the beginning of the round may shift differently.

  • Round 33: 2 SC, 7 SC with the paw, 14 SC, 7 SC with the paw, 12 SC (42)
  • Round 34: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36)
  • Round 35: (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30)
  • Round 36: (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24)
  • Round 37: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18)
  • Round 38: (SC, DEC)*6 (12)
  • Round 39: 6 DEC
  • Tighten the hole, fix the thread and hide the end inside

Muzzle Tightening (do this after closing the body):

Do the muzzle tightening with strong synthetic thread:

  • Mark 4 points: two at the bottom (on the color change line) and two at the top, between Rounds 11 and 12 between increases in Round 12
  • Insert the needle in the lower point and withdraw it in the upper point
  • Insert the needle in the point from the other side and withdraw it at the bottom near the first point
  • Tighten the thread, tie the endings and hide them inside the head
Yumi the Panda Crochet Amigurumi

Ears (make 2)

Black plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook Do not stuff

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Round 2: 6 INC (12)
  • Round 3: 12 SC
  • Work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 6 SC
  • Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing

Tail

Black plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook Stuff a little bit

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Round 2: 6 INC (12)
  • Round 3: 12 SC
  • Round 4: 6 DEC (6)
  • Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing

Nose

Black semi-cotton yarn, 2.25 mm hook

  • Round 0: Chain 6; work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS)
  • Round 1: (Start in the 2nd chain from the hook) INC, SC, 3 SC in one St, SC, 4 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: 3 SC, INC (14)
  • Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing

Blushes (make 2)

Pink plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Fix the thread and leave a long ending for sewing

Eye Patches (make 2)

Black plush yarn, 3.75 mm hook

  • Round 0: Chain 6; work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS)
  • Round 1: (Start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 3 SC, HDC, 5 HDC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: HDC, 2 SC, INC (14)
  • Round 2: INC, 2 SC, HDC, 5 INC HDC, HDC, 2 SC, 2 INC (22)
  • Fix the thread
  • It is better to cut the thread, and then sew the detail with a black thin cotton thread

Eyes (make 2)

Start with black semi-cotton yarn, 2.25 mm hook

  • Round 1: 6 SC in MR
  • Round 2: 6 INC (12)
  • Round 3: (SC, INC)*4, change color to white, back loops only: SC, 3 INC (20)
  • Round 4: back loops only: INC, SC, SS (4)
  • Fix the thread and leave long ends of black and white yarn for sewing and embroidering the glare (leave more white thread)
  • Work (blue) chain stitch under the white SC
  • Withdraw blue thread end on the wrong side, tie a knot and cut ends
  • Embroider the glare with white thread end

Bow

Pink semi-cotton yarn, 2.25 mm hook Make a turn and work 2 turning CH at the end of each row

  • Round 0: Chain 28 + 2 turning CH (30)
  • Rows 1 to 4: 4 rows of 28 HDC
  • Leave a long ending for wrapping and sewing
  • Fold the detail sides and crochet them together with SS
  • Wrap the thread end around the stitch
  • Sew it on the head

Final Assembly

  • Sew the ears between Rounds 5 and 10
  • Sew the nose in Round 13 under INCs from Round 12
  • Embroider the smile, stretching the thread under the pins and fixing the curve (2 bottom points) with thread
  • Place eye patches so that the upper edges are 2 rounds higher than the INCs on the muzzle
  • Place eyes and blushes on eye patches and fix them with pins
  • Take off eye patches together with fixed details and sew them:
    • Sew the eyes with black and white thread endings
    • Sew the blushes with thin pink cotton thread
  • Fix the eye patches on the head and sew them with thin black yarn
  • Embroider the eyebrows 2 to 3 rounds higher than the eye patches
  • Sit the panda down and mark the place for sewing the tail so that it supports the body
  • Sew the tail in place
  • Sew the bow onto the head

Tips for Success

Use stitch markers generously. This pattern has a lot of key placement rounds, like where you attach the paws, and the markers will save you from having to unravel anything later.

Go slowly with the eye assembly. The eyes, blushes, and eye patches all get assembled together before being sewn on the head. Take your time with this step. It is what makes Yumi look so alive and sweet.

Check your yarn tension. Everyone crochets a little differently, so your finished size might be slightly different from the pattern’s listed size. That is totally normal and fine.

Stuff as you go on the head-body. Do not wait until the end to stuff. You need to see the shape forming as you work, especially to get that flat-head and convex-muzzle look right.

Leave long thread tails. Especially on small details like the nose, blushes, and ears. You will need enough thread to sew them on neatly and securely.

Use thin cotton yarn to sew body parts together. This keeps the seams clean and invisible, especially on the soft plush yarn pieces.

When attaching paws, double-check with markers. The beginning of the round can shift, so always verify your stitch count with markers before committing to the attachment rows.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is this pattern good for beginners? A: This pattern is best suited for someone who already knows the basics of crochet, like magic rings, increases, decreases, and working in the round. If you have made a simple amigurumi before, you can definitely handle Yumi. True beginners might find the eye and paw assembly a little tricky, but the instructions are very clear.

Q: Can I use a different brand of yarn? A: Yes! The pattern was made with YarnArt Dolce, but any plush or velvet-style yarn with similar weight will work fine. Just keep the 2:1 thickness ratio in mind between the body yarn and the eye yarn.

Q: My finished panda is smaller or bigger than 25 to 28 cm. Did I do something wrong? A: Not at all. Every crafter has a different natural tension. A smaller or bigger Yumi is still a beautiful Yumi. The pattern even notes this directly, so do not worry about it.

Q: Can I leave off the bow to make a boy panda? A: Absolutely. The bow is sewn on at the very end, so you can simply skip that part and still have a perfectly finished panda.

Q: What is the best way to make the eyes look neat? A: The trick is to assemble the eyes, blushes, and eye patches all together off the head first, sew them, and then attach the whole assembled unit to the face. This gives you much more control over the placement and the final look.

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craftwithnina

Hey! I am Nina Harber

I’m the creator behind Craftwithnina. What started as a small hobby at home slowly turned into a creative passion for making adorable amigurumi that bring happiness to crochet lovers around the world.

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